2009 Chronicle Top 100
"It's worth encouraging more wines like the
2007 Broadside, grown outside Paso Robles.
At $20, that wine rejects the definition-less
style of weeknight Cabernet"
WINE OF THE WEEK
2007 Broadside Margarita Vineyard Paso Robles
Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) By Jon Bonné, Chronicle Wine Editor
This effort, from a cooler spot on limestone soils at the very southern edge of Paso Robles, is a reminder that Cabernet can still speak softly. A project from Chris Brockway of San Francisco's Broc Cellars, it gets a native yeast fermentation and sees almost no new oak. As such, it's a touch more raw, with fresh bramble, graphite and berry-leaf aromas, and a dense pile of tannins to bolster lively black fruit. Let it breathe. An energetic single-vineyard Cabernet with no fat on it that outperforms for its price.
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